Archive for the 'Eyebrows Tips' Category

01 JunProper Brow Grooming Technique

Tweeze Your Brows


To get the best brow shape for your face, it’s often ideal to have an expert attend to them first.

i) Tweezing pros: The most popular technique, plucking guarantees a clean, shapely arch. Cons: Since it requires precision, it can take time and be pricey.

ii) Waxing pros: This inexpensive and fast method pulls hairs out by the roots. Cons: With less control than tweezing, mistakes are more common. It’s not a good option for people with sensitive skin or those using retinol-based skin creams, because when skin is fragile, it can peel off with the wax.

iii) Threading PROS: In this ancient technique from the Middle East and Asia, a technician twists threads together and pulls out the hairs caught between them. It’s inexpensive, and unlike tweezing, which removes single hairs, it catches several at once. cons: Some regard it as unsanitary (one end of the thread is held in the technician’s mouth), and skilled threaders are often hard to find.

iv) Electrolysis PROS: A technician inserts a thin metal probe into each hair follicle. The probe delivers an electric current that, after several sessions, should destroy the root per­manently. Cons: Our brows typically thin as you age, so you may end up with none when you get older.

v) Staying in Shape

To keep brows looking more Dietrich than Groucho after a professional shaping, follow these simple upkeep steps.

1. In a well-lit area, with a slant-tip tweezer, nip away the stray hairs between your eyes, underneath your brow bone, and nearyourtemples. If these areas are excessively hairy, consider using a precision waxing product or a mini razor (for product suggestions, see page 202). To find your natural arches, brush your brows upward and out using a makeup comb or a clean toothbrush.

2. Tweeze the hairs outside the arch. Pluck only a few at a time. Every so often, step away from the mirror to gauge your progress.

3. Post-tweezing, ease redness by rubbing an ice cube over the area. A dab of hydrocortisone cream, enough to cover the tweezed area, can also help. If necessary, define brows or fill in thin spots with a pencil, powder, or pomade. Unruly brows can also be set with a clear gel, or just spray some hair spray on a brow brush or a clean toothbrush and comb it through.

Brow Powder

Brow powder can be used alone to emphasize a brow shape, or it can be applied over brow pencil for a more natural look than pencil alone. Powder adds texture and dimension, and it’s good for someone whose brows are not particularly thick. Dip a slant-angled brush into the color, tap off any excess, and apply it in short strokes, starting at the inside of the brow and working outward. (Avoid brushing on the color in one stroke).

Scissor Comb

BROW GROOMER SCISSOR: This type of two-in-one is safer than using sharp nail scissors near your eyes, and it makes snipping long hairs a cinch. Everyone should own a scissor-comb combo to trim regularly, because brows do grow to different lengths. The comb to brush hairs toward your temples, then cut smidgens at a time to avoid chopping off too much. Another tip: Hide it from the men in your life. Or, better yet, give them their very own.

BROW DEFINING PENCIL

Pencils are perfect for hairless gaps or extending shorter brows. Many contain wax bases, which adhere to the skin better than powders do. Choose a pencil that’s neither too soft nor too hard. When applied, the pencil should not crumble or pull the brow hairs or the skin underneath. Choose a pencil that comes in three shades, creates soft, defined strokes; the grooming brush blends in the color. For accuracy, sharpen the pencil before each use. Apply it in small, hair like lines, then blend.

Tweezers

To keep your brows in neat arcs, you need a sharp, slanted tweezer and possibly some extra implements, depending on your personal needs. The darling device of the pros, tweezers work for anyone who can bear the pain of individual hair removal. Choose a handmade, high-grade stainless-steel type. Unlike cheaper brands, it has a slanted tip with rounded edges to provide both control and precision, and it won’t poke or break the skin. For best results, always pluck hair in the direction of its growth. Going against the growth can bend the hair follicles and cause ingrown hairs.

How to Fix Common Mishaps

The only way to fix a botched brow is to let it grow. But to make it less conspicuous, try one of the following camouflage techniques.

THE MISTAKE: The slant of your brows was perfect, but you plucked one row too many. Now you look both perpetually surprised and angry. THE FIX: Shade the narrow area under your arches with pencil, then cover with powder to soften the harsh points and give the brows more body.

THE MISTAKE: You concentrated too much on the outer halves of your eyebrows. Now the inner brows look thick and bulky in comparison. THE FIX: Tweeze the undersides of the bushy parts to even out the halves. If you have little hair to spare, fill in the thin outer halves with pencil, then dust with translucent powder for a natural look.



19 MayFrom Scalp to Brow: Eyebrow Transplants are Hair Transplants Too

Fill In Your Eyebrows


Eyebrow reconstruction as a hair transplant technique is based on the technology first reported by Krusis in Germany in 1914 and later by the Japanese in the 1930 and 40s. In 1943, Tamara reported that single-hair grafts should be used for the hair restoration as these would look the most natural. Nearly a half-century later, when the most advanced type of scalp hair transplantation consists of using naturally occurring follicular units containing 1-4 hairs, the most refined type of eyebrow transplant still consists of using individual hair follicles.

The advance in eyebrow hair restoration lies, therefore, not in the use of individual hairs – this has been known for a long time – but in the adoption of techniques used in scalp hair transplantation that enable the physician to carefully isolate these individual hair follicles from the donor scalp.

The specific technique is called stereo-microscopic dissection, and it enables the surgeon to generate a hair follicle that contains all the essential anatomic structures necessary for maximum survival and growth, but that is devoid of the excess tissue that makes traditional grafts too cumbersome for the nuanced restoration of the eyebrows.

A carefully dissected single-hair micro-graft, trimmed of excess epidermis, dermis and fat, has the flexibility to be inserted into the tiny opening made with a fine hypodermic needle and placed at an angle almost flush with the skin – two techniques that are essential for the most natural restoration. The tiny recipient sites allow the grafts to be placed very close together. However, when closely placed grafts are angled so acutely, the base of one follicle literally lies under the shaft of the next, so that any extra volume to the graft can leave an unnatural lumpiness on the brow. The slender, microscopically dissected grafts have no volume other than the functional follicle, so they are perfectly suited for this closely spaced, acutely angled graft placement.

The Hair Cycle

The normal hair cycle varies from months to years; depending upon the part of the body the hair is located. Each hair regenerative cycle has a growth phase called anagen and a resting phase called telogen. The anagen phase for scalp hair ranges from 3-6 years while the anagen phase of the eyebrow hair is significantly shorter. The rate of growth for scalp hairs ranges from .30-.41 mm per day (about a half inch per month), while the growth rate of the eyebrow hair is half of that.

When scalp hair is transplanted to the eyebrow, the longer hair cycle of the scalp hair makes it grow to a cosmetically unacceptable long length. This necessitates frequent trimming of the eyebrows that is not only a nuisance, but that produces a cut end that is less elegant than the finely pointed tip of an uncut hair.

Over time, the transplanted hair will assume some of the characteristics of the site that it was transplanted into and the length of the transplanted hair will begin to gradually decrease. It is not known if the transplanted follicles will eventually assume the full characteristics of the surrounding eyebrow hair, but work by Wang et al. suggests that influences of the recipient are more significant than was previously thought.

Indications for Eyebrow Hair Restoration and Reconstruction

A variety of conditions can result in a loss or alteration of the eyebrows. Probably the most common is self induced – caused by repeated plucking of the eyebrows for aesthetic reasons, or less often from a compulsive disorder called trichotillomania. Those who pluck hair as an obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD) should not be transplanted without addressing the OCD first, since transplanting the eyebrow will fail as the patient returns to old habits.

Other forms of physical trauma that may result in loss of eyebrows include car accidents, burn injuries, defects from surgical procedures, and radio- and chemotherapy. Burns or trauma may result in the formation of scar tissue that initially precludes hair transplantation. In these cases, reconstructive surgery may be necessary before the eyebrow hair transplant can be accomplished. Thickened scars may respond to injections of corticosteroids and, once thin, may readily support the growth of transplanted hair.

Women with eyebrows that they deem to be too thin occasionally have them tattooed, but this almost invariably looks unnatural. The situation worsens as the pigment is engulfed by macrophages and brought deeper into the dermis causing the black-brown color to take on a bluish hue. The pigment can be successfully removed with lasers, but then the once thin eyebrows become totally devoid of hair.

A common dermatologic condition that may cause the loss of the eyebrows (and eyelashes as well) is alopecia areata. This is a genetic, auto-immune condition that manifests with the sudden onset of discrete, round patches of hair loss with normal underlying skin. It can be treated with injections of cortisone, but tends to re-occur.

Systemic diseases may also cause the loss of one’s eyebrows and there are also congenital abnormalities that are associated with the absence of eyebrows and/or eyelashes.

In some patients, the disappearance of one’s eyebrows is a normal occurrence with age and genetic hair loss results from the progressive thinning (miniaturization) of the hair until it is barely noticeable.

For any eyebrow transplant procedure to be successful, one must be certain that the underlying condition that caused the hair loss in the first place has been corrected. Once the hair loss is stable, hair restoration may be contemplated.

The Design

Persons who seek eyebrow hair restoration (or any hair transplant, for that matter) generally have particular desires, goals and prejudices on what the ideal shape of their hair should be. Creating natural looking eyebrows can be a difficult task because of the differences between a patient’s prejudices and normal eyebrow design. Eyebrows are as different as faces, so “normal” is a relative term. If beauty is the focus for females, there are rules that can be applied to help define a beautiful eyebrow. Men, who are not satisfied with their eyebrow shape, often want their eyebrows to have a special character, such as the look of Albert Einstein. Some men think that bushy eyebrows are the most desirable as they represent male virility or genius. Women, on the other hand, want delicacy and more well defined shapes. These differences in the preferences of each sex must be understood and incorporated in the design of the restoration from the outset.

Beauty is not just determined by a specific angle or a precise number of grafts. The art of the restoration requires that the surgeon gets “inside the head” of the patient and understands what he or she wants to achieve. In contrast to balding men, who often cannot remember where their hair was when they were young and who are thus open to any design that will give them hair, the person seeking eyebrow restoration often has very specific ideas in mind. The doctor’s job is to moderate the patient’s perspective and make sure that it is reasonable. Mistakes are in full view and can leave a patient with a problem that may require years of plucking to correct.

Proper angulation is the most important aspect of any eyebrow transplant. The hair in the upper part of the central edge of the eyebrow usually points upward to the hairline, while the hair on the lateral aspects points horizontally, towards the ears. The hair in the upper part of the eyebrow should be pointed slightly downward and the lower portion slightly upward, so that they will converge in the middle, forming a slight ridge and resembling the pattern of a feather.

The eyebrows must be put in flat, or they will stick out pointing forward. The surgeon controls the direction and the distribution as the hair is transplanted into the eyebrow, and fine skills are required to densely pack single hairs into the small needle tracks that make for an undetectable wound.

The Technique

The outline of the eyebrow transplant should be carefully delineated using a fine surgical marker according to the design that the doctor and patient had agreed upon during the consultation. Markings should also be used to indicate the directional change of the hair as one moves medial to lateral. It is often helpful to make these markings above the brow (outside the area that will be transplanted) so that they are not lost as the sites are being made.

Once the markings are complete, the patient should be given a mirror to make sure that this is what they had discussed and that the design is satisfactory. At this point we find it helpful for the physician to leave the room (another staff member should still be present) to give the patient a few minutes to reflect on the design.

A small amount of anesthetic should first be injected in the supra-trochlear and supra-orbital notches to create a nerve block to numb the medial and lateral aspects of the brow. Local infiltration using a mixture of xylocaine or bupivicaine and epinephrine can further anesthetize the area and provide rigidity to the eyebrows. Tumescence enables the physician to keep the recipient sites more superficial and at a more acute angle and minimizes bleeding. Due to the small volume of fluid needed, a separate tumescent mixture is generally not necessary. The use of corticosteroids and other particulate solutions should be avoided when injecting around the eyes.

Recipient sites should be created using 20-22g needles (or equivalent instruments), depending upon the coarseness of the hair. If the patient’s scalp hair is very light and fine, 2-hair grafts can be used in the central part of the brow to create extra density, but these grafts should not be placed near the edges.

Recipient sites should be created holding the instrument as flat as possible to the skin surface, as there is always some elevation of the graft in the normal process of healing. In making the sites, the instrument should be gripped between the thumb and the first and second fingers and held nearly flush to the skin surface. The instrument should not be held like a pencil, as this will not allow the angle to be significantly acute.

The number of grafts needed for the eyebrow hair transplant can vary greatly from as few as 75 per brow to as many as 350. Men generally require significant more grafts than women. It is helpful to make the recipient sites first so that one can determine exactly how many hairs need to be harvested. It is important to remember that follicular units will yield 2-3 grafts on average, depending upon the patient’s donor density.

If the donor hair is obtained from a strip, then one should excise 1 cm2 of tissue for every 200 grafts required (since there are approximately 100 follicular units averaging 2.3 hairs each per cm2). If hair is obtained via follicular unit extraction, then the staff should dissect the grafts into individual hairs as they are removed from the scalp, so that the doctor can determine exactly how many are needed.

In women, the finer hair in the area over the ears should generally be harvested. In men with fine hair and coarse eyebrows, the area adjacent to the occipital protuberance is usually the coarsest hair on the scalp and may be the best match.

The grafts should be inserted using fine jeweler’s forceps under loop magnification. The hair must be literally stuffed, rather than inserted, into the sites, as the site is too small to accommodate both the graft and the forceps.

No dressing is required post op and the patient is instructed to sleep with his/her head elevated. The following morning, the patient should gently irrigate the transplanted area to remove any dried crusts. This should be done in the shower at least three times the day following surgery and twice daily for a week. After each shower, an antibiotic ointment should be applied to the brow to help soften any crusts and enable to them to be more easily removed with the next washing. There is often bruising after the surgery that may take a week or more to subside to normal. Bruising is usually most apparent in older patients with significant sun damage.

As the transplanted hairs grow they will require occasional trimming. Using a gel or wax will help them keep the hairs flat as the hair has a tendency be unruly, particularly when they first start to grow. As mentioned above, the hair growth will tend to slow down over time and the hair will begin to assume some of the characteristics of the surrounding hair due to influence of the recipient site.

Patients should understand that two or more sessions may be required to achieve a desired look. Sessions are best spaced a minimum of eight months apart so that the doctor may have the benefit of seeing the first session actually grow in before planning the second.

Challenges of Eyebrow Transplants

When eyebrows are transplanted using scalp hair, they invariably retain some of their donor area hair characteristics of shape, shaft thickness and growth rates. If a person has coarse hair and fine eyebrows, a transplant from the scalp may not be a good match, particularly for a woman who requires delicacy of the new transplanted eyebrow. It is possible to decrease the diameter of the hair shaft by trimming off part, or all of the bulb, but this risks producing an irregularly shaped hair.

Curly eyebrows from an African American kinky haired person with coarse hair may not produce the directional control that the patient needs in a transplant (as African hair has a strong character, particularly in the coarse haired person). As such, some people may not be good candidates for an eyebrow transplant. With newer placing techniques, it is now possible to place the hair so that the curve is oriented in the appropriate direction.

As part of the normal healing process, wounds tend to contract. As a consequence, the cylindrical defect created by the transplanted hair will tend to contract and orient itself more vertically. This will tend to lift the hair slightly away from the skin giving the brow a bushier, unruly appearance. Making the recipient sites at a very acute angle can partially compensate for this, but some elevation may still occur.

Conclusion

Eyebrow transplantation is a safe, out-patient procedure that can significantly enhance one’s appearance. It is particularly helpful for those individuals who have defective eyebrows caused by disease, accidents or that have been self-induced. However, eyebrow restoration is a nuanced procedure that demands technical skills and artistic knowledge beyond that required for the treatment of a balding scalp. For those physicians who have the aesthetic inclination and who are interested in taking time to develop the special skills necessary for this procedure, eyebrow restoration can produce a significant improvement in the appearance of select patients.



28 AprThe Different Kinds Of Tadpoles



create a flattering frame for the eyes and lend balance to the face. A well-shaped brow can also deflect attention from what you consider a flaw, such as close-set eyes or a wide nose. First, consider what you don\’t want: patchy, over-tweezed brows; tadpole brows with a thick inner corner and nearly nonexistent line; or brows tweezed into an unnatural half­moon shape. Such misshapen lines create an unfavorable frame for the eye and diminish your good looks. For instance, too-thin brows can make your nose seem wider, tadpole brows lend a furrowed expression to your face, and half-moon brows give your face an appearance of permanent fright.

Limit your hair-removal activities to between, underneath, and at the outer edges of the brows. Shaping above the brow can lead to a flat, archless, unnatural-looking line.

Now consider what you do want: a realistic line following your natural brow shape. After all, when it comes to flattering shapes, nature has probably done much of the work for you.

Ready to shape up those brows? Always bear in mind that your aim is to make the most of what you were born with. The best time to tweeze brows is after a shower or bath, when your hair is at its most pliable; this will make for easier and less painful plucking.

If you have especially sensitive skin, consider numbing the brow area with a topical analgesic such as Anbesol before plucking.

Stand or sit in front of a mirror. Natural light is ideal, but bright artificial light will also work. Identify obvious stray hairs between brows, under brows, and at brows\’ outer corners. Using a good-gripping pair of tweezers, grasp individual hairs near their roots. With swift, sharp movements, pluck hair in the direction it is growing.

If necessary, do minor reshaping. Unless your eyes are close-set or wide-set, brows should start at the inner corner of your eye and end slightly beyond the eye\’s outer corner. Removing hair judiciously along the underside of the brow creates more lid space, making small eyes appear larger and more open.

If your eyes are close-set, consider starting brows a few hairs farther from the eye\’s inner corner. Creating a wider space between the brows mimics the look of average-set eyes. If you have wide-set eyes, create the illusion of average-set eyes by starting brows closer to your nose, and then removing a few extra hairs from your brow ends. With a brow brush or an old toothbrush, brush brows vertically. Trim any individual hairs that are noticeably longer than the rest. As we age, our brow hairs often grow longer and more unruly. In other words, when you are 30, your brows may look tidy with no trimming, while at age 50 you may find numerous hairs in need of snipping!



10 MarThe Perfect Eyebrow for your Makeup

Perfect Eyebrows


Eyebrows are tricky creatures. Eyebrow is one of the most important parts to beauty. Eyebrow is an area of coarse skin hairs above the eye that follows the shape of the brow ridges. Eyebrows also have an important facilitative function in communication, strengthening expressions like surprise or anger. Eyebrows also prevent debris such as dandruff and other small objects from falling into the eyes, as well as providing a more sensitive sense for detecting objects being near the eye, like small insects. The main function of the eyebrows is to prevent moisture, mostly salty sweat and rain, from flowing into the eye, an organ critical to sight. The typical curved shape of the eyebrow (with a slant on the side) and the direction in which eyebrow hairs are pointed, make sure that moisture has a tendency to flow sideways around the eyes, along the side of the head and along the nose. The slightly protruding brow ridges of modern humans could also still play a supporting role in this process. Together with the eyebrows, the brow ridges also shade the eyes from sunlight. It is common for people to pluck their eyebrows to maintain a clean and fashionable appearance with the use of tweezers and waxing. Both of these methods can be painful due to the sensitivity of the area around the eye but often this pain decreases over time as the individual becomes used to the sensation.

Some people claim that after they’ve been plucking/waxing their eyebrows for a few months, they become totally immune to the pain. Eyebrow threading is an ancient method of hair removal that is still used in parts of the Middle and Far East. Thin, twisted cotton threads are rolled over untidy hairlines, mustaches and so on, plucking the offending hair. Due to growing popularity in Western countries, threading is now found being performed in beauty salons. Like other methods of hair removal such as plucking or waxing, threading can result in skin irritation and ingrown hairs. Trichotillomania (TTM), or “trich” as it is commonly known, is an impulse control disorder characterized by the repeated urge to pull out scalp hair, eyelashes, beard hair, nose hair, pubic hair, eyebrows or other body hair. Trichotillomania is classified in the DSM-IV as an impulse control disorder that is not elsewhere classified under another axis or disorder. It is classified in this manner to control diagnoses of TTM. It is an Axis I disorder. Unibrow or monobrow presence of abundant hair between the eyebrows, so that they seem to converge to form one long eyebrow.

Steps of Perfect Eyebrow Shape

1.The perfect eyebrow starts above the inside corner of your eye (over the tear duct), and ends at the outside corner, above your eyelashes.

2.Trim your eyebrows. This will make a big difference in helping you look younger. Once eyebrows reach a certain length they start losing pigments at the ends.

3.Take an eyeliner pencil and place it vertically against your nose. It should run from the side of the nose, mid-mouth, and by the tear duct of the eye. This is wear your eyebrow should start; any hair that is visible beyond the pencil should be tweezed.

4.Next place the pencil diagonally where it should hit the middle of the mouth, nostril, and outside the iris of the eye. This is wear your arch is. Tweeze a gradually line from the arch to the start of the eyebrow.

5.Determine the end of the eyebrow, place the pencil diagonally across to his the opposite corners of the mouth, nostril, and outside corner of the eye. Any hair that goes past should be tweezed.

6.Place your pencil horizontal from the start of the eyebrow to the end of the eyebrow. The pencil should create a perfect straight line.

8.The biggest mistake people make is to tweeze too much. Avoid overplucking as it can take months for brows to grow back. Here’s a simple trick to remember:

9.Brow shade should be about two shades lighter than hair color for olive or dark skinned women and two shades darker than hair color blondes or women with grey hair.



09 MarConcept on Eyebrows Threading

Control Your Eyebrows


Eyebrow Threading is an all natural alternative to waxing and plucking. Perfect eyebrows almost transcend the beauty of the face and make an immediate visible impact in a makeover session. One of the best features of threading is that it is suitable for even skin that is too sensitive for laser hair removal or waxing. Eyebrow threading is a practice of shaping the eyebrows using a thread. The eyebrow threading is doing for the good looking of face.

Eyebrow threading is a depilation technique which originated in India, although it is also widely practiced in the Middle East. The face is very prominent thing of our body. There are different shapes of eyebrow according to the face. Such as round, angle type. Eyebrow threading is very precise and allows specialists to have greater control than waxing resulting in a better eyebrow shape. The threading can be used to remove other facial and body hair. It is a good technique for people with sensitive skin and the top layers of skin are not damaged when using this technique.

Tips for the Eyebrow Threading

Spray a little hair spray on your brows and brush them using your toothbrush to keep them in place.

Practitioners use a pure cotton thread.

The thread is twisted and pulled along the area of unwanted hair. The thread acts like a mini-lasso and lifts the hair follicle directly from the root.

The cotton thread is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin entwining the hairs in the thread, which are then lifted out from the follicle.

Its middle part is looped through the index and middle fingers of the right hand, and the loop used to trap unwanted hair so that it can be easily plucked from the skin.

Hold the tweezers at 45 degrees and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line in the direction of the hair growth.

Brow shade should be about two shades lighter than hair color for olive or dark skinned women and two shades darker than hair color blondes or women with gray hair.

Beautifully shaped eyebrows act as a frame to set off your eyes.



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